How to Read a Good Faith Estimate or HUD-1

It can be difficult to compare apples-to-apples when looking at closing cost estimates from lenders. There are lots of tricks that a lender can pull to make themselves look better, and there are so many expenses that’s it’s difficult to know which ones are “junk fees.”

Let’s review terminology first. When you make a loan application, a lender is required to provide you with a Good Faith Estimate (GFE). Most lenders provide you with this estimate even if you haven’t made a full application yet. The GFE contains three main parts: your rate/point combination, your monthly housing payment estimate, and an estimate of your closing costs. Though lenders are required to give you an estimate of closing costs—which run 2.5% to 3% in this area—they actually have no control over most of the fees shown! So be warned: do NOT compare lenders based on total closing costs! There are too many places they can under-estimate to make themselves appear more competitive.

The GFE closing cost estimate is an estimate of what will ultimately be shown on the HUD-1 at closing. The HUD-1 is a standard government form with each line item numbered for easy comparison. GFEs, on the other hand, come in a variety of format, further complicating comparisons.

Generally the expenses on GFEs and HUD-1s will fall into these categories:

Total Sales/Broker’s Commission	Section 700 on the HUD-1, and usually not shown on the GFE because this section is an expense of the seller.
Items Payable in Connection With the Loan aka “Lender’s Fees”	Section 800 on the HUD-1. These are your lender fees, and the most important part of your GFE because this is the part your lender actually controls, and is, at least in part, negotiable. This section will also include any points that you are being charged to get your loan rate. So you must compare this section in conjunction with comparing the interest rate charged.
Items Required by Lender to Be Paid in Advance	Section 900 on the HUD-1. This section is primarily driven by the day of the month you close. Lenders require that you ‘pre-pay’ the interest between settlement day and the end of the month. So if you close on the 1st, you owe 30 days of interest. If you close on the 30th, then you owe one day. If you’re comparing lenders, make sure they all use the same assumption for purposes of the GFE. As long as you’re comparing apples to apples in rates and points across lenders, you can ignore this section.
Reserves Deposited by Lender aka “Total Prepaids/Reserves”	Section 1000 on the HUD-1. Most lenders are the same in what they require—a year of hazard insurance, a few months of property and other local taxes, mortgage insurance, and possibly a month of condo fees. The lender doesn’t actually control this section of the estimate, so it’s safe to ignore it in your ‘shopping’ of loans.
Title/Settlement Charges	Section 1100 on the HUD-1. The settlement company determines this section, so it’s safe to ignore it in your comparison of lenders. This is a big chunk of your fees because it includes title insurance.
Government Charges	Section 1200 on the HUD-1. The local jurisdiction determines this section, so it’s safe to ignore it in your comparison of lenders.
Miscellaneous	Section 1300 on the HUD-1. Contrary to popular belief, this is not where the “junk fees” are. Instead it tends to be actual costs incurred for couriers, the survey of the property, and other fees that don’t fit into one of the above categories.

Read more: "Junk Fees"

Read more: Title Insurance

5% Down Payments Coming Back?

Just when you thought that FHA (which requires only 3% down) was the only way to get away with less than 10% down, it appears that Fannie Mae is changing its policy. Fannie had recently slapped a 'declining market' label on the entire Washington, DC, area, which had the effect of increasing the minimum down payment of 5% to 10% for most buyers. But according to the Wall Street Journal, as of June 1 that policy will end.

This is huge news for easing credit conditions for new buyers, many of whom have trouble getting together 10% plus the closing costs. FHA, which requires only 3% down, had seen a huge uptick in activity in recent months as a result. Where Fannie goes, Freddie is likely to follow, so look for improved credit conditions and more loan options in the near future.

Out: Exotic Loans, 100% financing; In: FHA, VHDA!

FHA is back with a vengeance. It's a key tool in the current lending environment for getting buyers qualified with only a 3% down payment (with gifts permitted in certain circumstances.) There are a few extra hoops to jump through, but I find more and more buyers are utilizing FHA now that the lending limits have been increased in our area.

The Virginia Association of REALTORS has this webcast "Mortgage Lending in 2008: Back to the Future, How FHA can help you and your clients," for agents, but I think it provides a good overview of FHA for anyone thinking of buying. At about an hour, it's a bit long, but worth it.

Some Restrictions on Condos
FHA won't work in some instances, though. Sometimes condos--especially new construction--gets tough. Condos must be on the FHA-approved list to qualify. If it's not on the list, it's still possible to get a spot-approval, but it must meet certain other criteria, e.g., more than 60% owner-occupied, which sometimes is problematic with condos. Some of the criteria may be streamlined as part of an expected upcoming FHA modernization, though, so stay tuned.

VHDA Loans
Another great option for first time buyers in our area are programs through VHDA (Virginia Housing Development Authority), which provides a variety of low-interest loan programs and low-down payment options for buyers who meet certain maximum income limits and property price restrictions. You also must not have owned a home in the previous 3 years unless you're buying in a designated target area, must attend a VHDA-approved educational seminar, and meet certain other guidelines.

Read more: Mortgage Loans: Jumbo, Conforming, FHA, and Jumbo Lights

Read more: Why Don't Fed Cuts Always Cause a Drop in Mortgage Rates?

Read more: What is Private Mortgage Insurance (PMI)?

Want to learn more or have more questions? Attend a free first time home buyer seminar that I teach.

FAQ: Mortgage Loans - Conforming, Jumbos, FHA, Jumbo Lights

Although I’m not a mortgage broker or lender, I get a lot of questions from my clients and in my first time homebuyer classes about interest rates, points, and fees. There’s a lot of confusion out there right now about what the conforming limits are, how FHA works, and what the stimulus package impact will be. The short answer is that we don’t have all the answers yet—the mortgage market changes by the minute. I always recommend to my clients that they choose a lender they trust and then stick with him/her (I’m happy to make a recommendation or two if you contact me.) An online mortgage calculator will never keep up with the pace of change and options (both coming and going) in today’s market. In my opinion they are nearly worthless if you're seriously thinking of buying a home (though if someone has found a good one, by all means, let me know!)

Here are some of the basics, including some basic economics on risk and reward (I admit these are over simplified, but I think will suffice to give buyers an idea.) You have to think of your mortgage as an investment product. Somewhere out there is an individual investor with a million dollars to invest; He can invest in the stock market, in gold, in CDs, are in mortgages, for example. The higher the risk he takes with his money, the more reward he will expect. These are some of the “flavors” of mortgages and rates:

• “Conforming” Loans. Until recently this meant ONLY loans less than $417,000 that met Fannie and Freddie underwriting guidelines. Fannie and Freddie are government sponsored entities that purchase loans from banks, package them up, and sell them off. Because the bank has a “guaranteed” buyer for your loan, it lowers their risk and hence lowers the interest rate (low risk for a bank = low reward for a bank.) Fannie and Freddie also slap their own guarantee on these products, so the people they sell them to are willing to earn a lower return because there is less risk. These loans have the most competitive rates. All Fannie and Freddie loans are subject to their underwriting guidelines, including their downpayment restrictions. Because both entities have slapped a "declining market" label on our area, downpayment requirements are higher now than they were a year ago to the tune of 5%. So if previously you were the quality of borrower that could have qualified for a 95% loan-to-value (that is 5% downpayment), this new label means that you now only get 90% (a 10% downpayment) if you want a Fannie- or Freddie- backed loan.
  
• “Jumbo” Loans. Loans that are above $417,000. They carry a higher rate because Fannie and Freddie are prohibited from buying them, and hence the risk to your bank is higher—they need to find a buyer out there, or they need to keep it in-house.
• “Jumbo light” or “jumbo conforming” Mortgages. These are new in 2008 as a result of the stimulus package. Fannie and Freddie are temporarily allowed to buy loans up to 125% of the median purchase price of an area. For the Washington, DC, area, that means $729,950. So this new layer represents a loan that meets Fannie and Freddie’s guidelines and is between $417K and $729,950. Rates on these loans are still in flux, but chances are that it will be somewhere between “conforming” and “jumbo.” Fannie and Freddie put some limitations on which ones they will buy though, so expect some hoops: at least 10% down, or 20% if your FICO score is less than 700, among others; Below 660 and you’re out of luck altogether. One thing the market (our individual investor out there) doesn’t like about this new layer is that it’s temporary, so he’s not sure what will happen to it in the future. Investors don’t like uncertainty, so even though there’s a theoretical “buyer” out there in Fannie and Freddie, he nonetheless wants a premium for it in the term of a higher rate of return.
• FHA Loans. Once the stepchild of the mortgage industry, it’s quickly coming back in favor because of its low down-payment (3%) requirement. FHA loans are guaranteed by the government, so risk to an investor is low. Low risk = low reward, or in other words, lower rates charged to borrowers. FHA until recently had a very low limit, so was not widely used in this area. But Congress recently approved an upper limit of $729,950 in our area (same as the “jumbo lights”). Similar to that scenario, rates on that mid-tier (between the old limit of $362K and the new limit of $729K) will likely carry a small premium over “regular” FHA loans below $362K. FHA comes with its own set of hoops to jump through; for example condos must be on the FHA approved list.

Again, I highly recommend speaking to a mortgage professional if you’re not sure which product is right for you – they all have advantages and disadvantages, and programs and guidelines are changing daily. In a future post I’ll try to touch more on FHA loans, the Nehemiah program (a roundabout way for a seller to “gift” your downpayment!), and the rates/points/fees tradeoffs (the best rate isn’t always the right answer!)

If you’re interested in learning more, I encourage you to attend my first time home buyer class. Details are here, and you can email me to register.

Are you ready to begin your home search? I’d be happy to speak with you about some of the advantages and disadvantages of loan programs and how they impact your negotiating ability in a transaction. Just drop me an email or call and we’ll set up some time to talk about your search.

Read more: Why Don't Fed Cuts Always Cause a Drop in Mortgage Rates?

Read more: What is Private Mortgage Insurance (PMI)?

Want to learn more or have more questions? Attend a free first time home buyer seminar that I teach.

Conforming Loan Limit Increase

In conjunction with the stimulus package on its way to the President's Desk, a new conforming loan limit is on its way in our area. The final legislation effectively limits the increase to certain high cost areas including California, Boston, NY, and metro DC. In our area, the limit will be $562,500, up from $417,000, for the remainder of 2008 only.

The impact of this generally will mean lower rates, and perhaps easier refinancing, for loans between the old limit and the new one. However, the actual rate differential between this new "tier" and "original" conforming loans (still below $417K) remains to be seen; the rates likely won't be equal because of some market constraints. Namely, the temporary nature and limited geography means lower volume and lower trading liquidity, which equals lower demand for these types of securities. So will it help? Yes. Dramatically? We'll see.

Read more: Why Didn't the Fed Cut Impact Mortgage Rates More?

Fed Rate Cut - Why Didn't Mortgage Rates Fall Much?

The Fed's emergency three-quarters of a point rate cut didn't have much impact on mortgage rates...or did it? Well, it did and it didn't (don't you love answers like that)? The bottom line is that the Fed Funds rate certainly impacts mortgage rates, but sometimes indirectly, and surprisingly, sometimes they can move in opposite directions! This is a very high level and over-simplified discussion of the whys and hows -- it's tough to fit this in to one post though, and I'm not a mortgage banker, so bear with me, and feel free to contact me directly if you want to discuss more. Here we go:

The Fed Funds Rate is the overnight borrowing rate between banks. Banks are required to have certain reserve funds at the Fed each night to cover their deposits (remember reading about the Depression and runs on banks?) Sometimes banks don't have the funds so they borrow from other banks who have excess funds. The rate is an important policy tool of the Fed--it helps keep the balance of economic growth vs inflation in check. That's the key trade-off that the rate helps control--if rates are too low, we'll get inflation. If rates are too high, it prohibits growth.

The FFR is a very short term rate (overnight), whereas mortgage rates are more aligned with longer term instruments like bonds. After all, a buyer is theoretically borrowing money for 30 years (the length of a mortgage, though the lenders all know that most borrowers sell or refinance long before that time.) Bond yields, which impact 30 year mortgages, are tied to long term investor market expectations.

So which loans does the FFR impact?

30 year fixed -- Not directly impacted, though they often move in tandem because of shared expectations about long term growth of the economy. But if the FFR drops too low and investors get too worried that it will result in inflation, then mortgage rates can actually move in the opposite direction.

ARM loans -- These are generally tied to short term (1 year) treasuries, and so likely are impacted by rate cuts, but only if it varies from what was "expected" (see more below).

HELOCS -- These are generally tied to the prime rate, which moves in step with the Federal Reserve.

Subprimes -- Depends what index it's tied to, but they are often tied to LIBOR. LIBOR rates have been falling this month.

How markets move after FFR changes depends on expectations; the Fed meets on a regular schedule and many pundits predict their every move, so there are expectations "built in" to interest rates. If the Fed acts "as expected", then there are minimal changes following an announcement. Yesterday's announcement was a surprise mostly in the timing--many pundits had already predicted a half point cut later in January. So the impact was not overly dramatic.

NB: Not covered in this post is the differences in impacts between "Jumbo" and "Conforming" loans -- the magic number there is $417,000 because that's the mandated upper limit of loans that Fannie and Freddie can purchase from banks and re-sell--with a guarantee--to investors, creating a very liquid secondary market. Liquidity and guarantees lowers risk for banks, which helps keep rates lower for buyers in that bracket.

Update: In conjunction with the just released stimulus package comes news that Congress is evaluating whether or not to raise that $417K limit to $625K. If implemented, this will do a ton to create more affordable mortgage options in the DC area...more to come.


Read more: How do Fed rate cuts affect adjustable mortgages?

Read more: A slightly dated article that still does a nice job explaining impacts on different mortgage types.

First Time Buyer Assistance Programs

Believe it or not, this is a perfect time to start planning for a home purchase in the spring, especially if you're a first time buyer. The reason I say that is that I find it takes most of my first time buyer clients at least 3 months from the time they first speak to a lender until the time they move in. If someone has special financing restrictions, or isn't quite sure yet what they're looking for in a home or neighborhood, then it takes more in the range of 4-6 moths!

Financing in particular takes some very advance preparation--saving for downpayments and closing costs, sticking to a budget, and fixing any credit issues can take quite a long time. With the cost of housing (still) being what it is in this area, it's especially difficult for first-timers.

If you're thinking of buying in DC, though, there's a special program that may help you out. Like many special programs, there's a bit of paperwork involved, so it's best to get started far in advance. HPAP enables lower and moderate income buyers (that is, making less than $70K per year) to receive up to $70K in funds in the form of a low-interest loan. In addition, buyers can receive up to $7000 in closing costs free! Closing costs average 3% of a transaction, so on a $300K condo, that covers almost all of them! Tough to find a better deal, but there is paperwork and classes involved so get started now if you're thinking of buying in the spring. Get more info here, and contact me to discuss how best to coordinate your search using HPAP and other programs.

There are lots of other programs too; here is a link to some other area programs.

Confused about how to start your search? Attend a free first time home buyer class in Arlington, VA.

FAQ: ARM Loans

A very informative article about shopping for ARM loans (more popular given the recent jump in both jumbo and second trust rates).

The bottom line is to show around for rates, and know which questions to ask.


- Determine the initial interest rate and how long you will get it
- Ask if it’s a negative amortization loan
- Determine what the rate increase will be and how often it ‘resets’
- Determine what the annual and lifetime ‘caps’ are and how quickly you might reach them – this gives you the worst case scenario on your rates. Make sure you understand what the payment is at those rates.
- Know what the index (LIBOR, T-bill, etc) and spread is
- Know whether your loan is a balloon, and what term the balloon is, or based on a 30 year amortization

The author wisely points out to be wary of internet lenders. I’ve seen cases of this myself—even if the rate does turn out to be as low as they claim, keep a careful eye on the fees they charge but are buried somewhere in the Good Faith Estimate (GFE), and often not in the “Lender Fee” section where you’d expect.

Speaking of fees, that’s the only I’d add to this list—always ask what the fees are, and what they’re for. Always ask about things like: administrative fee, underwriting fee, processing fee, application fee, document fee, and warehousing fee. Don’t get me wrong—a lender needs to make money too, but these are the fees you should be comparing, and negotiating. And also understand the origination fee and any discount fees, especially as it relates to the interest rate you’re being charged. Two lenders might both be quoting 7%, but one of them is charging you a “point” (equal to one percent of the loan value and listed as a “discount point” on the GFE) to get it!

As always, you can contact me with any questions, or to look over your GFE with you. I can’t negotiate it for you, but I can tell you which things I’ve seen before and which things I haven’t. I routinely do this with my clients.

And of course, the way to avoid many issues is to work with a reputable lender in the first place!

Interest Rate Jumps; Unfortunate, but not Catastrophic

I'll be writing on this quite a bit, and I'll start off by saying that, as regular readers know, I do NOT think recent interest rate jumps are the end of the world. I'll get to why in a bit, but first, a recap.

Last week, large mortgage lender American Home Mortgage shut its doors. That made the markets very panicky and led to an increase in rates for two specific loan types: "Jumbo" and 2nd trusts.

"Jumbo" loans are loans above $417,000--the limit for "conventional" loans set by Fannie and Freddie, who buy mortgage loans from originators. Fannie and Freddie exist to create a “secondary market” for mortgages—that is, they buy loans for cash, and then originators use that cash to make more loans to homebuyers. If they didn’t exist, then banks would only be able to loan as much cash as they had on hand, and would have to hold the mortgages until each homebuyer sold or paid it off. (That’s a bit of an over-simplification, but for our purposes it should suffice.) Fannie and Freddie are government “sponsored” (though not technically government-insured), and so the loans they can buy have certain restrictions, i.e., are under $417K. Because there’s an easily available secondary market for this size loans, they typically have a lower interest rate than the larger, or “jumbo” loans.

Now, $417K doesn’t buy you much in this area, so lots of people end up with “jumbo” loans. And since even the smallest place is usually in the $300s, many people in this area don’t put 20% (or about $60K+) down. That hasn’t been an issue until now. You can put 5% down, take out two “trusts” (or loans)—one for 80% and one for 15%, and be on with your home purchase. Those second trusts are becoming an issue, though. Read on:

The second impact of this panic is a big jump on the 2nd trust rates. 2nd trusts have always been riskier for lenders—they’re junior liens, after all, and so carried a higher interest rate. But that rate is the other important change in the past week. It jumped significantly.

Two impacts on this market are clear, but in my opinion, neither is catastrophic. At least not yet.

1) For most buyers, they can afford less. So if you were shopping at the top of your affordability range, chances are you can no longer afford that payment, regardless of how much you were putting as a down-payment. How much less? We’ll have to see where the rates stop. According to the Post, rates are up almost a full percentage point since May. So for every $10,000 borrowed, that’s $100/year.

Let’s use an example. Let’s say a buyer was looking at in the $600,000 range starting in May. Rates jumped up a point since then. That means that if there is NO room in their monthly budget (and why would any responsible person be looking at that price if there was absolutely no room in their budget?!) then now they can only afford $500,000. Another way to say it is that having the same $600,000 mortgage now costs them an extra $6000/year (which, making some assumptions about income bracket, is about $4000/year out of pocket after taxes.)

My guess—and I certainly could be wrong—is that people shopping for $600,000 homes have just a little bit of wiggle room in their budgets, maybe even up to $4,000/year. I think most people in that income and affordability bracket will make the trade-off, see their home as an important investment, and forgo a few discretionary items to get the house that they still want. I believe that the majority of the people are NOT going to change the range in which they’re looking, at least not by much. Again, maybe I'm naive, or maybe I'm just lucky that my clients tend to be responsible purchasers (or, not to pat myself on the back too much, but maybe I do a good job counseling them up front and introducing them to reputable lenders who counsel them too).

In my experience, the people who tend to stretch their budgets to the breaking point are the people who are buying their first place, which is often under $417K, and therefore not impacted by the jumbo rate jump. They are, however impacted in another way. They usually have less of a down-payment (because they’re not rolling over equity from a previous home), and are borrowing more than 80% of the purchase price.

2) For all borrowers planning to finance more than 80% of the purchase, you can afford less. This one worries me less—one, because only 15% of the loan is going to have a significant jump in rate, and that’s a whole lot better than having it hit the 80%. Second, there exists an option to borrow 95% as one trust and pay PMI. PMI, which historically was a dirty word for borrowers, is more acceptable now because in 2007 it’s tax deductible, same as interest. Boy, did they pick a good year to change that rule! So the 95% trust, as long as it’s not jumbo (see impact #1) should keep the payment roughly what a borrower was planning two weeks ago.

I’m sure this will continue to be a front-page crises for a few weeks. I’ll write more as the situation evolves. But I still stand firm in my conviction that if you are:

- Financially able to buy: good credit, a reasonable budget, about 8% of the purchase price in savings, and
- Your life situation calls for buying instead of renting: will be in this area for 3 or more years, you have reasonable expectations of what you get for the money, and you recognize that even a flat return on an investment is better than rapidly increasing rents (see Rent vs Buy calculator post),

Then this is still a good time to seriously consider buying.

"Junk Fees"

The Washington Post had a good, though short, Q&A on "Junk Fees" from mortgage lenders. Many people know BoA has a big promotion running right now for their "no fee mortgage plus" which advertises $0 closing fees and $0 application fees, with no PMI. (Update July 2007: See the article about whether BoA's program really saves you money here.)

But what are these fees? And which ones are negotiable? Here are some excerpts from the WP, and you can read the full entry here.

The first category of charges listed are those items payable in connection with your loan. These may include an origination fee, points, appraisal fee, credit-report fee, mortgage-broker fee, underwriting fee, processing fee, courier fee and wire transfer fee. An origination fee and points are typically a set fee that you have agreed to pay to obtain your loan. It may be a percentage of the loan amount, say 1 percent.

An appraisal fee and a credit-report fee are typically not negotiable, as the lender or your mortgage broker will order these.

The mortgage-broker fee listed on the good-faith-estimate form is negotiable. The lender's inspection, underwriting and processing fees may be somewhat negotiable, but many lenders stay fairly firm on these fees.

Courier and wire-transfer fees are typically charged for transferring loan documents to the escrow closing company and wiring the loan proceeds to the closing officer. You may ask that these be reduced or waived.

Interest Rates Expected to Continue Rise

Excerpted from May 26 Washington Post: Rates on 30-year mortgages jumped to their highest level in seven months as prospects diminished for Federal Reserve rate cuts any time soon, reflecting concerns in financial markets that inflation worries will keep the Fed from cutting rates in coming months.

Frank Nothaft, Chief Economist at Freddie Mac, said he was looking for a gradual rise in mortgage rates the rest of the year...and looked for housing to stage a recovery beginning at the end of this year, with a modest increase in both sales and home construction in 2008.

**

30 year fixed rates now average 6.37% nationwide. Let's keep this in perspective though. Take a look at the long term average rates:

Source: Long & Foster

Information deemed reliable but not guaranteed.

So, in the big picture, rates are still extraordinarily low. Let's use a real life example: take a $500,000 loan (more than the average condo in Arlington, but we'll use it because it's a nice round number). A borrower with a 30 year fixed rate loan of 6.35% has a Principal & Interest (P&I) payment of $3,111/month. Let's say rates continue to go up--at 6.45% that same loan has a P&I of $3,144, a difference of $33. Of course $33/month adds up over time, but if that $33 is make-or-break in your budget, then you should NOT be buying a house in that price range anyway. If rates go all the way to 7%, then we're talking $215/month, so that gets to be a bit more significant in the monthly budgeting process. I guess what I'm saying is to not panic when you read rates are slowly going up...a small tick in prices should not impact your go/no-go decision in a home purchase, and if it does, then you need to be looking in a lower price range.